Contrasts, Comrades and Contrails

Hi all, well -  we have made it through to Singapore.. in our last blog we were at Pheriche on the way down.. We still had a few big days of walking ahead of us and as we descended the air thickened up and we all started to feel better. We had one night at Pangboche and the next night at Namche. 

I was still in quite a bad way with diahorea up till Namche where we called in a nurse. Herwin had a little flow diagram for D and V and after consulting that and discussing symptoms with the nurse we decided on a course of Giardia pills. There was pretty much an immediate improvement- much to my relief..

The last day was a really big walk, 11 hours including lunch and morning tea, finishing up at Lukla for the night before flying out the next morning. Mike, Herwin and I all ordered Sizzling chicken for dinner which was interesting.. It was roasted and sizzled to such and extent that there was only really a couple of bones with some crunchy stuff attached ;-)

The next Morning we survived the flight out to Kathmandu and then spent a few days shopping and relaxing.

My overall impressions are of and amazing place, the scenery is stunning but the highlight has to be the people. All our Sherpa Guides were absolutely top guys. Very helpful, generous and kind of heart. Whenever any one was sick these guys would carry their bags, they looked after us in the tea houses and provided wisdom along the way when things got tuff...

Herwin has been a pleasure to travel with. When i was really sick at Gorak Shep Herwin was a huge support, helping pack my gear up and getting me organised and onto the horse.He even took care of my used sick bucket YUK !!

The whole team gelled really well and even after 3 weeks together we are all good mates so all in all its been a huge experience, or as mike puts it ' a journey of discovery'.

Thanks everybody for all your support and comments on the blog..

Al

So, the team got back to Hotel Manaslu in Kathmandu and how we delighted in the power from the wall socket, how the showers, which when we'd first arrived two weeks ago had seemed dingy and a tad grotty, now had a palatial elegance. The sheets on the bed, had felt a little tired, but now were like Egyptian silk. What an experience in contrasts. Now in Singapore, it seems slightly odd being able to use the tap water to brush your teeth with, and not having to drop the used loo paper in a bucket beside the dunny!!! The sheer luxury off being able to actually flush it all away. Ahhhh it's the small things in life that should be appreciated.

This has truly been a trip where, by taking the time to appreciate all that is, the amazing views, the stoicism of the people, the joy of shared experiences, rather than dwell on all that is not, I've been able to experience the time for it's bountiful pleasures.

Thank you all for giving us a lift with your support.

Till next trip...........

Herwin

Alot changes in 24hrs

Well since we last blogged lots has happened.There was an " R " Party held at Gorak Shep with appearances from Rocky,rabbits,redheads and Al and myself doing the Rastas. An early start at 4am the next day for our Kalapathar summit, but Al went downhill rapidly during the night with head aches, D and V's, and was unable to climb.
To make the summit of 18200' was a real push digging deep with little Oxygen to work with.The sun rose behind Everest which along with Lohtse and Pamori still towered over us.The Sherpas Ang Naru and Dawa burnt Juniper at the top for safe travels and after photos and hugs we headed back down .
Steve and Al's condition was worse so the call was made to descend them to a lower level down to Pheriche.
"After having been awake most of the night with countless episodes i was so weak i could barely walk .Fortunately a horse was available along with a guide to lead us back down the hill. The terrain was very steep and rocky and staying on the horse was a test of endurance. After 6 hours we arrived at Pheriche."
The rest of the team pushed on to base camp and 3.5 hrs later dragged our very tired bods into the tents.The walk over the morrain had drained the last of our reserves.
What a buzz, not normally allowed for trekkers the -25 deg overnight at base camp with the cacophony of the Kumbu ice fall avalanching and the roar of the jet stream tearing through the mountain tops above gave a real sense of measure to the challenge ahead of the summit climbers.
We headed back down and rejoined Al and Steve and are now at 13000' where the air seems totally thick and full of oxygen such has been the acclimatising since last here at Pangboche.
Still the humour and laughs have carried us all despite the various hardships.

All part of the "Journey of discovery.."

For more photos and blogs of the journey go to:
www.mikeallsop.co.nz

HAFE-meisters

Pheriche Lodge is an experience of contrasts. The dinning area is pretty flash with pictures of Sir Ed and Nepalese folks adorning the walls and then, you guesssed it, the dunnies which have the water turned off at midnight can be a sensory super nova experience by the morning.

We got a medical lecture on high altitude illnesses by thhe local volunteer doctor and along with High Altitude Cerebral Edema and High altitude Pulmonary Edema, Al and I were relieved to know that there is a medical term for what has been troubling us the most. HAFE High Altitude Flatulence Expulsion.
He also said our next leg would hurt the most and boy was he right. A 700m/2310ft climb in altitude to get to Lobeche taking 7.5hrs with breaks and reaching 16,400ft really took it's toll on the team.

In Phereche Herwin and I both had the chain stokes during the night. This a condition where every time you drift off to sleep you stop breathing momentarily. It is quite scary as you wake up again gasping for breath.
We set off from Phereche to Loboche at about 8 am and by the end of the day I was feeling shagged! I have found the altitude difficult and have had to dig very deep on several occasions.

Several members of the team have taken ill. Glen had nasty stomach bug back in Namche and Steven has been battling something similar but worse for three days now. They have both shown huge fortitude and guts in carrying on. Various other people have had chest infections, stomach issues and acclimatisation issues.

Today we made it to Gorak Shep which was another 4hour trek. Tomorrow Kalapatahar 18,300'!

Love Herwin and Al

Ps Mike's website has the official blog at www.mikeallsop.co.nz

The Long March

After a day in Namche with an acclimatisation day walk over to Khumjung, where Ed Hillary had a school built, we headed off for a massive day of 11.5hrs with 9hrs walking. Altitude played a big part in the day, we actually went up and down over 5000' and at the end of the day we had only gained 1500'.
This whole trek took place at an altitude higher than Mt Cook! we walked through the famous Khumbu Rhododendrum forrests where we were lucky see them in flower.
Not every thing has been rosy with the troops, Glen in particular had a terrible day prior to the walk with D and V but soldiered on like a real trooper. Pretty much every one has had the trots at some strage..
We have been lucky enough to have some awesome Sherpas who are fun to have on track as well.
we ended the day pretty stuffed at 13000' in Pangboche.
Today was a special day for all of us especially Mike. We got up this morning and walked up to the Lama's house for a private blessing where Mike presented the replica yeti skull and hand. From there we all walked down to the monastry with the skull and hand where they will be kept on display.There was a small crowd awaiting our arrival and to see the expressions on their faces was truly awesome.
After a quick lunch we walked further up the valley for 2 hours to Pheriche where we will now stay for 2 nights.
Both uf us are in good spirits and enjoying the trip so far and the challenges involved. we think about every one at home and send you all our love.

1st classromm built by Sir Ed Hillary

 Ama Dablam at sunset

 Lama Geshe receiving the Yeti head replica

 Wecan across this young 4 year old girl carrying water for her mother. She was giving her all to get up steps half her size and not giving up even after a couple of face plants.

 Al-Queda, the new head of the HAFE muslim Brotherhood!

 Pheriche

 The team out for a stroll at 15000 ft

Herwin and Al..

Monjo men

Hey everybody, well yesterday we did the big walk from
Monjo to Namche. The walk starts with a fairly easy trek for about 1.5 hours or so then we hit the big hill. The biggest issue with walking up hill at altitude is walking at a slow steady pace. It doesnt take much to over exert and before you know it you are puffing with this horrible feeling that you just cant get enough oxygen..
Our pulse rates are up at about 130 and even at rest remain around 95 / 100. Anyway, after at least 2 hrs up we were getting close.. the jopkoy cows with horns go up amazing terrain with 60kgs on thier backs.
Namche is a cool town / heaps of stalls to peruse and the lodge is clean and the food is ok. I have been living on variations of fried rice, omellettess and hot chips. So far Herwin and i have avoided the dreaded trots with lots of hand sanitising..
Yesterday we also came across the worlds most disgusting squat toilet.. high on top of a hill in an old block building was this thing..words can not describe it. We are still undecided wether to post a piccy of it..
Today we are going for another 6/7 hr stroll up to check out the views of Everest and get some more altitude training.

My impressions so far are of a very friendly and willing people living in incredibly basic conditions which of course they find normal. The scenery is HUGE. you just cant capture it on film. There have been some physical challenges so far but the altitude is the big thing, being  puffed, slight headaches, tiredness from only getting 5 hrs sleep a night or so. The Diamox we are taking for this makes me pee twice through the night, and big ones too.. Ive been practising using the pee bottle in bed and havent had any failures yet but Herwin had a funny story to tell this morning... We are having a great time, lots of laughs over our typical basic bloke issues / read farting burping etc.

Yesterday we treked a little higher for a view of Everest and came across the worlds worst squat toilet. I rivals even Scotlands worst toilet from the movie train spotting. Words fail us so only a picture can truely show what we mean.........
To all of you at home we are thinking of you / love you lots..

Now the journey has taken us deep into the heart of StewGer habitat. Airport security was a little dubious in exactly what was being searched for when hands patted down parts which it was hard to determine how a dangerous device could be pack in those regions!!!!! We've all subsequently put in job applications for security positions with the Nepalese airport police. Flying a seriously dodgey route slotting between the tightly layered cloud with the odd mountain goat appearing above us. The landing at Lukla, an airstrip which holds any winter Olympic ski jumper to shame, can only be experienced in the flesh. The arrival was necessarily firm as the rock face at the end gives a little urgency to stop in time. 6 hours of trekking through some of the most amazing scenery over vast swing bridges, all the while avoiding yak trains and German tourists. Although Al with his day trekking attire was nick named Gunther for his Teutonic appearance.
Finally at the Guest House in Monjo despite continuous searching no further sightings of the beast were confirmed. More to follow.

Searching, Shopping and Sweating in Kathmandu

 So the intrepid search for the elusive StewGer continues. A false lead took us to Singapore. But we found that reports had mis-identified an obnoxious South American Rodent as the culprit. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZLBY3lYtsQ
After the excitement, a sojourn to Raffles bar for a Singapore slinger was the order.

So further investigations have taken us to the foothills  of the Himalayas to the very heart of mystery and intrigue, Kathmandu.

Of course no trip would be complete without the obligatory rickshaw race. After a collisions, cacophonous horns and corrupt practices (including bribery of drivers, to taking over control of the power train) the winners come to a screeching halt outside the hotel.StewGers are rumored to possibly be found lurking in the depths of hotel pools, so a search was mounted with a specialised synchonised dive team. The practice only being perfected with the imbibing of Everest summit beer

Ed gets a flash on the spot shoe repair and is

The local police holding cell could do with a spot of redecorating, and is certainly missing the underfloor heating option.

Mike has been totally busted mixing his drinks. By choosing lemonade and beer he has lost all creditability as a hardened mountain guide.

Retail therapy is still pursued with vigor and zeal before total withdrawal for 14days